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Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 7

I am publishing my travel journal from our trip to Edinburgh which  took place June 1-8, 2015. I am posting my journal entry and pictures from each day in chronological order.

Our last full day in Edinburgh was sunny and relatively warm. It would turn out to be the nicest day of our entire trip and a wonderful way to end our time in Scotland. Wendy and I got up and, while Wendy showered, I walked up Victoria Street to the La Barantine Patisserie for an Americano. We got ready for the day and grabbed the bus to the Royal Botanic Gardens, which was the same route we’d taken the day before to Taylor’s flat, but just a few stops before.

Wendy and I walked down Arboritum Road toward the entrance to the gardens and enjoyed the sunshine. It felt absolutely wonderful as we walked. It was about 4-5 blocks to the main entrance of the Gardens and we entered the visitor’s center to find Taylor browsing through the gift shop.

We entered the gardens and immediately walked to Inverleith House, an old mansion in the middle of the gardens which contains a contemporary art gallery. Taylor had done an internship there this year, helping them investigate opportunities to build patron support. There was a show by Nicholas Party in the galleries called “Boys and Pastel” which Taylor had helped install. Not only did it have the artist’s works, but the artist had chosen colors and designs for the walls of each room, which Taylor had helped paint. We walked through the exhibit and took pictures. The gallery was nice with big airy rooms and a lot of gorgeous sunlight.

We then began a tour of the grounds. The Botanic Gardens were wonderful and it was such a lovely day. The flowers, the smells, and the landscape were breathtaking and we took our time leisurely walking about. After a while Wendy plopped down on a stretch of grass, stretched out her arms, and basked in the sunlight. Taylor and I joined her and we began a trend as several more visitors eventually joined us nearby. We lay on the lawn, took in the sun, and enjoyed conversation together. I think we all could have sat there all day, but there were other things on our agenda.

Taylor wanted to take us to a small outdoor market that was a hike of several blocks from the Botanic Gardens. During her year in Edinburgh, Taylor has worked two days a week at Steampunk Coffee, a coffee roaster and coffee bar in North Berwick. Steampunk has a mobile coffee stand housed out of a VW van that is a regular at this particular outdoor market. We enjoyed walking through the market and seeing all of the vendors. I especially liked the vendor who makes different sauces with Scotch whiskey.  We bought some Scottish made chocolate and a chocolate fudge muffin before heading for the bus stop.

Taylor had planned a girls date of high tea with Wendy. They got off the bus near the shop, Eteaket, where they had a 2:00 reservation. It is on a lower level with a small outdoor patio where they had tea in the sunshine. Wendy had a fabulous “girls” time with Taylor and she marveled at the huge selections of teas from which she could choose.

Meanwhile, I rode the bus a few more stops. Taylor had told me to get off when I saw the Royal Mile, but I realized that we were passing St. John’s Church on the opposite side of Edinburgh Castle. A quick check of the bus route told me that this was as close as I was going to get since the Royal Mile starts at the castle, so I hopped off and began a long trek up castle hill to the Royal Mile.

As mentioned in yesterday’s entry, I had wanted to do a Scotch Whiskey tasting while in Scotland and knew that neither of the ladies would have any interest. By luck, Jon De Haan and Gabe Spencer had arrived the previous night and when I mentioned doing a tasting they both eagerly agreed to join me. We met at Rabbie Burns Pub on the Royal Mile which had been recommended by a friend of Taylor’s.  Jon and Gabe had just arrived and were looking at the menu as I walked in the pub and we switched to a larger table. We figured we wouldn’t want to do a whiskey tasting on an empty stomache, so we ordered lunch. I had a burger and an ale called Caldonia Best. The boys each joined me in the Caldonia Best, but ordered bangers and mash.

There were three different levels of whiskey tasting that each included four different types of Scotch. Jon and I both chose the same one (the lower priced flight), but Gabe went for broke and ordered the highest price. He was, however, happy to share so we each got to try eight different types of Scotch. It was a lot of fun and I was amazed at the differences in color, aroma, and flavor. There were a couple of varieties that were similar, but for the most part each was quite distinctive. It was fun to have a couple of other guys to share the experience and I enjoyed Jon and Gabe’s company immensely as we chatted away and compared our impressions of the whiskey. I preferred the smokey, peat tinged whiskeys from Islay myself.

Before all of the Scotch was consumed, Taylor and Wendy arrived and joined us. There followed an hour or so of pleasant conversation. Jon and Wendy got into a spirited debate centered on Harry Potter, and whether it was Harry’s mother or father who first appeared out of his wand at the end of the fourth book. The answer would prove whether Rowling had made a mistake or not in the logic of the book. It was fun to watch them spar. Eventually, they put their argument aside. We decided it was time to go. Hugs all around and both of the lads agreed to come visit Vander Well Pub next time they were in Pella.

Wendy had to grab a requested scarf for our friend, Becky, before we left the Royal Mile. We left Taylor to hang with her friends while we hit a few more shops. Wendy and I then headed back to the hotel to freshen up.

Taylor joined us about an hour later after escorting Jon and Gabe to The Elephant House. We left the hotel and trekked to Central Methodist Hall which is now home to Central Church where Taylor has worshipped this year. Wendy and I really enjoyed experiencing worship with her and meeting her friends there. I thought it the perfect way to end our week. Wendy and I loved the mostly younger crowd who gathered there and the Spirited worship. The pastor, Carl, gave a great message on Revelation 5 and then the congregation split into various prayer stations for prayer and meditation.

We left a little early before the service concluded and were greeted at the exit by Pastor Carl, who seemed a nice gentleman. Taylor led us to a restaurant, Nando’s, which she had been telling us about all week. It’s a Portugese chicken restaurant and we had our last meal together in Scotland before walking back to the hotel.

Taylor hung out with us for a few minutes as she had a wee bit of a wait for her next bus home. We hugged and said our good-byes, which was certainly bittersweet. It had been so good to see her after eight months, but we took solace in the fact that she will be home with us in seven weeks. After Taylor left, Wendy and I began the process of packing for our trip home as we watched “Bridesmaids” on the telly. I pulled up the Cubs vs. Nationals game on my iPad and as we climbed into bed we watched the Cubs take the four game series 3-1 with a 6-3 victory. It would be a short night before our long journey home.

The flight out of Edinburgh went without a hitch and we arrived at Chicago-O’hare a few minutes early about 12:40 on Monday afternoon. Our 5:30 flight to Des Moines, however, was cancelled and we scrambled to get rebooked on the 7:10 flight. That flight was also delayed. Wendy and I ended up hanging out at the airport and watching the Chicago Blackhawks in the Stanley Cup from the Berghof in Concourse B. Our flight eventually took off for Des Moines at 11:45 p.m. and we landed in Des Moines at 12:40 a.m. Tuesday morning. After our drive back to Pella it was about 2:15 a.m. when we finally got to bed. We’d been up for 26 hours straight. The second 24+ hour day we’d had in 8 days.

Edinburgh Travel Journal: Days 1-2
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 3
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 4
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 5
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 6
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 7

Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 3

This week I am publishing my travel journal from our trip to Edinburgh which  took place this past week, June 1-8, 2015. I am posting my journal entry and pictures from each day in chronological order.

Day 3 (June 3, 2015)

We were on our own as Taylor was working at Steampunk Coffee in North Berwick where she’s been employed for most of the year. It was probably a good thing as Wendy and I were still quite tired from our travels and slow to get moving.

I was up before Wendy and went to the hotel cafe downstairs in a search for coffee. Unlike the U.S. where coffee is considered a God-given right and every hotel has fresh coffee in the lobby for free, I’ve found that in the UK they make it really hard to get just a cup of coffee in the morning. You have to go to the cafe and be seated where they will be happy to provide coffee as part of the expensive continental breakfast or bundled with your ordered meal, but just a cup of coffee is something they don’t really do.

I journaled and checked my e-mail before returning to the room expecting that Wendy would be up and showered and ready for the day. Instead, I found her still asleep and struggling to wake up. I helped her get out of bed and into the shower and then went for a stroll while she readied herself for the day.

I walked up Victoria Street and then over to the Royal Mile. I did a little window shopping as I walked a good long ways down the mile before turning to make my way back up the other side of the street. The Royal Mile is packed with tourist shops, restaurants, whiskey shops, kilt makers, and pretty much any other kind of vendor catering to the whims of the large tourist trade. I found everything to be pretty expensive compared to the States, especially considering the exchange rate which meant that one pound cost us about $1.60 on average.

I returned to the hotel and found Wendy close to being ready. Once she was we headed out and made our way back to the Royal Mile, stopping at a small French patisserie, La Barantine, on Victoria Street to get Wendy a delicious chocolate pastry. It would prove to be a regular morning stop during our entire stay. We headed to the transit station to get our bus “ride cards” and then did some of our touristy shopping for postcards and such. I’ve been doing a little reading on my Scotch-Irish genes from my mother’s maternal great-grandfather who was a McCoy. It appears from my research that McCoy is a sept of the McKay clan and so I bought myself a McKay tartan scarf.

We toured St. Giles cathedral and I paid the 2 pounds for the right to take pictures inside. The stained glass windows were amazing as was the ornate decorative architecture. Wendy and I spent a good long time walking around and looking at everything.

We made our way up the Royal mile to Edinburgh Castle which sits on a tall hill with an expansive view of the city and the area. We opted not to spend the money to take the tour but looked around the entrance area and looked out at the scenery around.

It was getting to be mid-afternoon at this point and we were getting a little hungry. We made our way back to Grassmarket where our hotel is located and had lunch at the White Hart Inn Pub across the street where we’d had a pint with Taylor the night before. It was traditional pub fare but the food was good and they had the French Open playing on the telly. Novak Djokovich was taking it to Rafael Nadal while Andy Murray was making pretty quick work of David Ferrer.

After the leisurely lunch we walked a good hike to a Tesco grocery and got a few things to enjoy in our room. We returned to our room, stopping on the way inside an interesting little hat shop, Fabhatrix. We tried on a lot of hats and there several that looked adorable on Wendy, but we were just looking. Once back in the room we relaxed with tennis on and waited to hear from Taylor. She texted us to meet her at Waverly station at 6:15 and so we made the 15 minute hike to the station to meet her.

The weather had been much more pleasant. The sun was out most of the day with a high around 60 degrees. Wendy and I decided that Edinburgh reminds us a lot of Chicago as the wind off the North Sea feels a lot like the wind off Lake Michigan. When the sun was out it felt warm and the breeze didn’t bother us so much, but if the sun ducked behind some clouds the wind suddenly felt very chilly. I was amazed at how it could rain in fits and starts all day, even when the sun was shining.

Taylor had made reservations for us at a new restaurant called Maker’s Rest but upon our arrival and a view of the menu Taylor wondered what happened to the pizza that looked so good on their website. She inquired to find out that they changed their menu and, as the rest of the menu didn’t strike our fancy, we opted out and headed to the bus stop. Taylor led us to her favorite pub in Edinburgh, the Queen’s Arms where we had planned to have an after dinner drink. We ate there instead and were glad we did.

The Queens Arms has a warm, hospitable atmosphere and feels like a place you’d find on Diagon Alley. Edinburgh, by the way, is where J.K. Rowling lived and wrote Harry Potter, so the city is full of Harry Potter references wherever you go. The atmosphere she creates in the books in places like Hogwarts, Diagon Alley, and Hogsmead feel very reminiscent of Edinburgh.

The food was upscale pub fare. Wendy and I enjoyed some really good bread with dipping sauces (oil/vinegar, hummus, and salsa verde) which was very good. We split a delicious burger with Scottish cheddar. Taylor had some very interesting lamb bites on a bed of greens and hummus. I enjoyed a wee glass of Caol Ila  12 year single malt Scotch which was really potent, but extremely good. As with the day before we enjoyed conversation with Taylor. For me, the highlight of the week was simply to be with Taylor and to catch up on her year in Scotland. Her path has had some major twists, turns, inclines and valleys over the past couple of years and it was good just to hear her talk about the condition of her heart and how God has been growing her up. As the conversation flowed, dinner gave way to an after dinner bottle of wine and we found ourselves embraced in the Queen’s Arms a good long while that evening.

“It was really fun to have the ‘rents in the ‘burgh this past week. If you are lucky enough to know them personally, then you know that one thing they do very well is dinner. It is never a quick thing. It is an event. This is something I have especially missed about them: the way they engage in sitting around the table, filling stomachs and emptying wine glasses, laughing and sharing good conversation for hours late into the night. I was definitely thankful to partake in a lot of that while they were visiting.” – Taylor (from her blog Love, Taylor)

It was 10:30 when we finally left but the last light of day had not yet expired. The sun is up about 17.25 hours of the day at this time of year in Edinburgh which is a little hard to get used to. We walked back to the Hanover bus stop, said good night with a warm embrace and caught our respective buses. Wendy and I made it back to the hotel contentedly tired and ready for bed.

Edinburgh Travel Journal: Days 1-2
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 3
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 4
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 5
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 6
Edinburgh Travel Journal: Day 7